Drop everything, head to Wayne’s new Italian spot, Viaggio, and order the chicken. Yes, the chicken. Yes, this is a rare and ringing endorsement of what is the most notoriously boring dish in most restaurants.
And no, it’s not Parmigiana or Francese. Those Italian-American favorites happen to be banned from the premises of Viaggio, a strip-mall restaurant that seeks to present food as it’s cooked in Italy. With his chicken, chef-partner Robbie Felice presents an unforgettable interpretation of cacciatore that involves brining the breast and stuffing a delectable herb-cheese-breadcrumb mixture under the skin, then serving it over mushrooms whose flavor has been amped up with chicken-leg confit and ground pancetta ($29).