His fellow chefs have seen this coming; so have his customers, and so have we. Robbie Felice, whom we identified in last year’s Best Restaurants issue as a Talent on the Rise, has arrived. At 27, he has made his 2-year-old restaurant a rewarding journey (viaggio) for those who appreciate the intense care and craft underlying Italian cooking. You can get a tricolore salad at any Italian restaurant; at Viaggio, you get one as detailed as a Verdi quartet. The endive and radicchio are sliced fine, the arugula left uncut. The salad is topped with a radicchio cream, hazelnut brittle, and a blizzard of grated ricotta salata. Equally good is his branzino in parchment with fregola, fried capers and marinated currants. Felice and his team make several salumi and all their pastas from scratch, including a fresh spaghetti that turns that quotidian shape into the toothsome star of an opus featuring tiny shrimp in Meyer lemon butter, shrimp stock and herbs. BYO


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